Why Beef Cheeks Work

Beef cheeks are a working muscle with a lot of connective tissue and collagen. During a long, gentle braise, that collagen converts to gelatin, which gives the meat its spoon-tender texture and gives the sauce body. The cut also has a deep beef flavor that holds up to red wine and aromatics. It costs less than premium steaks, but it needs time rather than special equipment.

Choosing the Wine

Use a dry, medium- to full-bodied red you would drink. Cabernet Sauvignon brings structure, Merlot gives rounder fruit, Pinot Noir suits a lighter Burgundy-style braise, and Syrah adds pepper and body. Avoid sweet wines and heavily oaked wines. The wine needs enough acidity to cut the richness of the beef. For 1.5 kg of beef cheeks, use about 750 ml of wine, then add stock until the meat is almost covered.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg beef cheeks, trimmed of silverskin and excess fat
  • 2 tbsp olive oil or neutral oil
  • 150 g bacon lardons, optional
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 750 ml dry red wine
  • 500 to 750 ml beef stock
  • 3 thyme sprigs
  • 1 rosemary sprig
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Beurre manié, optional, for thickening

Method

  1. Pat the beef cheeks dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the cheeks in batches until deeply browned, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Set aside.
  2. Lower the heat to medium. If using bacon, render it until crisp, then remove and reserve. Add the onions, carrots, and celery and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until softened and lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, until it darkens slightly.
  3. Pour in the wine and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the wine has reduced by about half.
  4. Return the beef cheeks to the pot. Add enough stock to almost cover the meat. Tuck in the thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover tightly, and transfer to an oven preheated to 150°C (300°F). Braise for 3 to 4 hours, until the cheeks pull apart easily with a fork. Check occasionally and add more stock if the liquid drops too low.
  5. Remove the cheeks and keep them warm. Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing gently on the solids. Skim off excess fat. Reduce the sauce over medium heat until it coats the back of a spoon. Thicken with beurre manié if needed, then season with salt and pepper. Return the cheeks to the sauce to warm through.

Serving

Serve with mashed potatoes, polenta, crusty bread, pappardelle, or a root vegetable puree. Steamed green beans or asparagus add a clean contrast to the rich sauce. This serves 4 to 6. The dish improves overnight and reheats gently. Pair it with the same dry red wine used for braising.